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	Parsnips belong to the Apiaceae family and the Pastinaca sativa species. It is a biennial plant grown for its root. Parsnips are mainly white in colour but there are different varieties adapted to various soil and climate conditions.	Pastinaki piederīgi Apiaceae dzimtai un Pastinaca sativa sugai. Divgadīgo augu kultivē sakņu ieguvei. Lielākoties pastinaki ir balti, taču dažādas pastinaku šķirnes pielāgojušās atšķirīgiem augsnes un klimata nosacījumiem.
	The flower head of the parsnip is an umbel composed of small flowers that are usually hermaphrodite. The stamen, the male sexual organ, matures before the pistil, the female sexual organ.	Pastinaku ziedkopa ir čemurs, kas sastāv no sīkiem ziediņiem, kas, visbiežāk, ir hermafrodīti. Putekšņlapa (vīrišķais vairošanās orgāns) nobriest pirms auglenīcas (sievišķā vairošanās orgāna).
	Self-fertilization does not therefore occur within the same flower. Yet since the flowers do not bloom at the same time, self-fertilization is possible within the same umbel or between two umbels on the same plant.	Tādēļ zieds nespēj veikt pašappaugļošanos. Tomēr ziedi neatveras vienlaicīgi, tādēļ pašappute iespējama vienā čemurā vai starp viena auga dažādiem čemuriem.
	Fertilization also occurs between the umbels of different plants.	Viens otru apaugļot var arī atšķirīgu augu čemuri.
	The parsnip is an allogamous plant primarily pollinated by insects, in particular insects from the Diptera and Lepidoptera species as well as by ladybugs, which are attracted to umbels that are often covered with aphids.	Pastinaks ir alogāms augs, kuru galvenokārt apputeksnē kukaiņi, īpaši - Diptera un Lepidoptera kārtu pārstāvji, kā arī bizbizmārītes, kuras pievilina pastinaku čemuri, kas nereti klāti ar laputīm.
	Parsnips can cross with wild parsnips.	Pastinaki krustojas ar savvaļas pastinakiem.
	To avoid cross-pollination, two varieties of parsnip should be grown 300 meters apart. This distance can be reduced to 100 meters if there is a natural barrier such as a hedge between them.	Lai novērstu krustošanos, pastinaku šķirnes audzējamas vismaz 300 m atstatumā. Attālums samazināms līdz 100 m, ja pastāv dabiska barjera, piemēram, dzīvžogs.
	To isolate varieties you can either cover two varieties with different nets, open one while the other is closed on one day and alternate the next, or you can permanently cover one variety with an insect net and put a bumble bee hive inside (for more information, see the module on isolation techniques in the “ABC of seed production”).	Šķirņu izolēšanas nolūkos - divas šķirnes pārklājamas ar nošķirtiem tīkliem, no kuriem viens atverams, kamēr otrs paliek aizvērts (pamīšus - ik pārdienu). Iespējams vienu šķirni pārklāt ar slēgtu kukaiņu tīklu, sprostā ievietojot kameņu ligzdu. (Sīkāka informācija - izolēšanas metodēm veltītajā ‘’Sēklu ražošanas ābeces’’ modulī.)
	Parsnips grown for seed production are grown in the same way as those for consumption, but they will only produce their seeds in the second year of the cycle.	Sēklai audzētie pastinaki tiek kultivēti tāpat kā pārtikas ieguvei, taču sēklas nogatavosies tikai cikla otrajā gadā.
	It may take a long time for seeds to germinate at the start of the season – around three weeks.	Sezonas sākumā sēklu dīgšanas process var ieilgt - līdz 3 nedēļām.
	Once they have developed, different methods exist for the winter storing of parsnips intended for seed production. It is possible to dig up the roots in autumn. They should be selected for characteristics specific to the variety: colour, shape, vigour. The roots are cleaned without water and the leaves are cut above the collar. They are then left to dry a short while in the open air. You should then store them in the cellar.	Kad sēklas nobriedušas, sēklu pastinaki ieziemojami dažādos veidos. Rudenī saknes iespējams izrakt. Saknes jāatlasa - atbilstoši šķirnes kritērijiem: krāsa, forma, dzīvelīgums. Saknes notīra, nelietojot ūdeni. Lapas nogriež virs kakliņa. Saknes neilgu laiku tiek žāvētas zem atklātas debess. Turpmāk tās uzglabājamas pagrabā.
	During the winter you should regularly check them and remove those that have begun to rot.	Ziemā saknes regulāri pārbaudāmas, aizvācot visas iepuvušās.
	The easiest is to leave them in the ground in the garden. The parsnip is one of the hardiest plants and can stay in the ground in winter even in very cold regions. Its flavour is even improved by frost.	Visvienkāršāk - atstāt pastinakus dārza augsnē. Pastinaki ir vieni no izturīgākajiem augiem. Tie pārziemo zemē - arī barga sala reģionos. Sals pat uzlabo auga garšu.
	After the worst of the cold has passed, you should uproot them and select those intended for seed production.	Kad bargs sals vairs nav gaidāms, izrociet augus un atlasiet piemērotākos - sēklu ražošanai.
	Replant the roots at the beginning of spring. Bury them so that the collar is either at ground level or slightly below with a distance of 60 to 90 cm between each plant. It would seem that planting parsnips close to each other reduces the number of tertiary umbels, whose seeds are of poor quality.	Pārstādiet pastinakus pavasara sākumā. Ierociet tos, lai kakliņš būtu vienā līmenī ar zemi vai nedaudz zem augsnes virskārtas. Atstatums starp augiem: 60 - 90 cm. Tuvu stādītiem pastinakiem veidojas mazāk terciāro čemuru, kam raksturīgas vājākas kvalitātes sēklas.
	A minimum of fifteen to twenty plants is necessary to maintain good genetic diversity.	Ģenētiskās daudzveidības uzturēšanai nepieciešami vismaz 15 - 20 augi.
	Parsnips grown for seed are magnificent plants that can reach a height of two meters in good years. It is sometimes necessary to stake them.	Sēklai audzētie pastinaki ir iespaidīgi augi, kas ražīgākās sezonās var sasniegt 2 m garumu. Tos var nākties balstīt ar mietiņu.
	The parsnip produces several umbels that bloom at different times.	Pastinaki veido vairākus čemurus, kas nezied vienlaicīgi.
	The first, the primary umbel, is found at the tip of the main stem.	Pirmais (primārais) čemurs atrodas galvenā kāta galā.
	The secondary umbels are those that develop from the main stem.	Sekundārie čemuri attīstās no galvenā kāta.
	The tertiary umbels form on the secondary stems.	Terciārie čemuri izaug no sekundārajiem kātiem.
	It is preferable to harvest the primary umbels because they produce the best seeds. The secondary umbels should be harvested only if necessary.	Ieteicams ievākt primāros čemurus, jo tie saražo labākās sēklas. Sekundāros čemurus ievāc tikai nepieciešamības gadījumā.
	The umbels are cut along with the top of the stalk when the first mature seeds begin to fall. You can also cut them earlier as they tend to fall very easily to the ground. In any case, they should continue to dry in a well ventilated and dry place.	Čemurus nogriež kopā ar ziedkāta augšgalu, kad sāk izbirt pirmās nobriedušās sēklas. Tos var nogriezt pirms nobriešanas, jo sēklām raksturīga strauja izsēšanās. Turpmāk čemuri žāvējami sausā un labi vēdinātā vietā.

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